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Road to ruins

Plans are afoot to transform Stonehenge in the next few years. John Ezard visits the focus of this weekend’s summer solstice

You still feel it, however long it is since you last saw Stonehenge – an odd lurch in the pit of the stomach when your car crests Countess Hill on the A303 and it first comes into view: this little cluster of part-broken stone toadstools in the middle of open countryside.

The road dips, then begins to climb again. When it reaches its highest point, it is still lower than the monument, which now looks sturdy and formidable, particularly when the sun is behind it. It still draws the eye from all over this area of Salisbury Plain, as it was meant to.

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