There’s more to Danish cuisine than Noma. Out in the north Atlantic, Michael Booth finds a new Nordic frontier as Faroe Islands chefs raise traditional foods to new levels of pleasure
The weather looks as changeable as a toddler’s tantrums. Thank god we’re not in a helicopter, I think to myself as the plane banks on its final approach and a cluster of snow-covered island-mountains erupting from the sea loom through the storm clouds.
This Nordic Hawaii is the Faroe Islands. Forget Copenhagen, or even Reykjavik, I’d heard this cluster of 18 rocky islands in the middle of the north Atlantic, inhabited by 50,000 descendants of Norse renegades, is the new frontier in the new Nordic food movement. A place where a tiny band of determined pioneers, led by one visionary chef, is developing a radical, contemporary cuisine from the most meagre culinary heritage.