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True wilderness in Australia’s Northern Territory

Emma John skips Australia’s popular Red Centre in favour of a true wilderness experience in the less-visited Top End of the Northern Territory and its state capital Darwin, a city on the up

It’s 7.30am and our four wheel-drive bus is heading towards the Northern Territory’s wildest bushland, otherwise known as Kakadu national park. Most of the people on the bus are dozing but I’m up front with Nathan – driver, guide, and enthusiastic naturalist – as he runs me through the wildlife we’re likely to encounter on our trip: the spiders, the snakes, the scorpions.

There’s a definite theme emerging, and I tell him I’m not sure I want to see anything that can poison or kill me. “Better walk around with your eyes closed, then,” he snorts.

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