Grab a seat at Dewa & Sons – purveyor of Mauritius’s favourite street food snack – and prepare to get messy
Mauritians go misty-eyed at talk of dholl puri: a pancake made from ground yellow split peas seasoned with cumin and turmeric, griddled on a tawa (flat pan) and wrapped around cari gros pois (butter bean curry) with rougaille (spicy Creole tomato sauce), pickled vegetables, coriander satini (chutney) and chilli.
Originating from Indian parathas (stuffed flatbreads), dholl puri was introduced to Mauritius by Bhojpuri-speaking Indian indentured labourers from Bihar more than a century ago – and stuffed with the ingredients to hand, making it uniquely Mauritian. They are always sold in pairs, wrapped fish and chips-style in paper to take away and cost 14 rupees (30p). Typically, the nation’s favourite street food is then washed down with a soft drink.