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A local’s guide to Nice, France: 10 top tips

The once-sleepy grande dame of the Côte d’Azur is now its vibrant artistic hub, with cool new bars, restaurants and galleries enlivening its classic sights

Nice is booming, despite and in defiance of the terrorist attack that shattered the Bastille Day celebrations here less than two years ago. Irina Brook, daughter of legendary director Peter Brook, who runs the prestigious Théâtre National de Nice, reveals her favourite art venues, restaurants and bars.

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Sailing the Nile in style

There’s plenty of good eating, dozing and Egypt’s magnificent past to enjoy on this leisurely cruise aboard a luxurious dahabiya – though not a hint of Agatha Christie melodrama, mercifully

By the time our dahabiya moored at Daraw, just north of the Aswan Dam, and we stepped down on to the bank, watched by a few idle cows, I was tiring of Agatha Christie. If you say you are going sailing up the Nile, everyone – absolutely everyone – cracks a gag about someone getting murdered. But gripping as it is, Death on the Nile isn’t a good book about Egypt. The river is only tangentially relevant to the story. As with all Christies, it could be anywhere.

Like many a visitor to Egypt before us, we started with the pyramids of Giza. “They’re a bit of a tourist trap but they’ve got to be done,” a friend advised before I went. Standing in front of the Great Sphinx, with the pyramids looming behind, it was hard not to agree. Under the burning sun, the monuments, the sky, the sand and the yellow-brown admin buildings all seem to have been made from the same substance, as if the architecture were simply dusty air crystallised into solid form.

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