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Walking Spain’s most spectacular coastline

Galicia’s new Lighthouse Way connects fishermen’s ways and farm tracks – and is a more meditative walk than the busy Camino de Santiago
Guide to mysterious inland Galicia

Have we hit peak Camino de Santiago? Almost, according to a copy of the El Correo Gallego newspaper I found lying in a bar in the harbour town of Muxía in north-west Spain: a record 301,036 walkers completed the pilgrim trail last year – 98.6% capacity, said a professor.

I mention this because Muxía – a splatter of peach, royal blue and yellow buildings amid the green hills – was busy with hikers when I arrived. This wave-lashed point steeped in aeons of mysticism – prehistoric, Celtic, Christian – is one of the final destinations for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago after visiting Santiago de Compostela.

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