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The Hidden Hut, Porthcurnick – Reassuring, raffish and very British – restaurant review | Grace Dent

A seaside shack on the south Cornish coast cooking homestyle food served with love – and a large helping of nostalgia

The Hidden Hut is a Cornish beach shack on a National Trust coastal path on the Roseland Peninsula. It sells cakes and tea and hearty lunches. It sells Cornish steak pasties, clotted cream ice-cream and fragments of bygone, possibly misremembered British summers. An era where, for a lot of us, abroad seemed very far away, and a summer holiday meant one week in a static caravan in Filey and sleeping on a pull-out hammock dangling over a chip pan.

For me, the Hidden Hut reminds me of Dent days out circa 1983, driving in an Austin Maxi to a beachside tea hut in Kirkcudbrightshire with my grandmother and her Jimmy Shand and His Band cassette. A 200-mile round trip in order to eat pork luncheon meat and Stork on Mother’s Pride medium-sliced. It was a time when SPF was only for the precious and sun-stroke a small badge of honour. Everyone will get a different Proustian bombardment from a visit to the Hidden Hut, which is lovely, although it is memories like this that helped win Brexit.

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