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Pilgrims’ progress: an ancient walking trail in Sweden

A medieval path offers huge forests and lakes, warm Swedish hospitality – and a salutary lesson in what comes before a fall

When a friend and I set out to tackle West Sweden’s Dalsland Pilgrim Trail, we expected we’d have a pleasant enough time of it. We’d be wandering through vast forests, swimming in (and drinking from) lakes and cooking over a fire at night. Neither of us had entertained the thought that the most striking memories would involve a moose on a mission, a five-storey flour-sack chute and an incident with a Canadian canoe that would make me the poster boy for hubris.

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