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Georgia on my plate: a culinary journey in the Caucasus

No lesson in the complex art of Georgian cuisine is complete without a toast or two, says our writer on a tour of the country’s mountains and cities
Suzanne Moore in ‘mind-blowingly gorgeous Georgia’

“This is a crazy Georgian situation,” says Ketino Sujashvili, with a hint of theatrical relish, as a dozen different crises flare up in her kitchen all at once.

I’ve just arrived at Ketino’s guesthouse in Kazbegi, northern Georgia, for an informal cooking class – the plan is to make khinkali, the soupy minced-meat dumplings prized in this spectacular region of the High Caucasus mountains. It begins smoothly enough, with the women in Ketino’s kitchen creating a space for me at their table, clearly amused by this lanky Irishman eager to learn the secrets of Georgian cuisine.

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An affordable winter sports break in Oslo, of all places

Despite its pricey reputation, Norway’s capital may be the world’s most accessible snow sports hub, with an Olympic bobsleigh run and cross-country skiing a short schuss from the centre

I’m on the metro, Line 1 of Oslo’s T-bane, but instead of shopping bags and briefcases, people are getting on with skis and snowboards. The train heads north, emerges from the tunnel in a forested suburb covered in thick snow then climbs up and up. At Midtstuen station a crowd of excited children get on with their sledges. They have clearly just toboganned down the hill.

“Stay on the train until the last stop,” a 12-year-old tells me. “You rent a sledge and helmet. The run ends at Midtstuen.”

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