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A foodie homage to Catalonia: a tour of its unsung delta

Exploring the food and drink of the Ebro delta, our writer follows sustainably caught tuna from sea to plate, visits a ‘wine cathedral’ and samples Spanish sake

I’m snorkelling in the Mediterranean, three miles off the Catalan coast, and for a heart-stopping split second I’m eyeball-to-eyeball with my dinner – a 250kg bluefin tuna that shoots out of the deep blue abyss like a torpedo a metre below me. Our group of 30 or so snorkellers is surrounded by hundreds of the fish. When they swim past, they are moving so fast we feel the force of their wake and scream with excitement. I’d heard of fishing for your supper before … but never swimming with it.

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Great Danes: the Denmark of Hamlet and Karen Blixen

The second leg of our Scandi tour visits the forests, castles and beaches of north Sealand, including a new national park, following in the footsteps of real and fictional characters

Scandi tour: part one

I get off the train in Snekkersten, a small coastal town 50km north of Copenhagen. The conductor has already warned me there will be nothing open: no food, no drink, no taxis. She is right. It is late at night. Really late. Close to midnight. I walk past the sleeping houses and along the beach. It is quiet down there. At my hotel, the Villa Brinkly, I find my room key inside an envelope pinned to the front door. A bicycle is waiting for me out there too, the key securely stored – in the bike’s lock.

Denmark is a safe country, consistently in the world’s top 10, with high levels of trust, rather than suspicion. It’s amazing how quickly you can relax into that – and wish the whole planet could be the same.

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